
Israel is very much the ‘land of walls’, but we found an alternative in Safed, a small town in the Galilean hills. Because of the complicated history in this part of the world, the town of Safed, like many places in Israel, has alternative names: Zefat, Tsfat, Zfat, Safad, Safes, Safet, Tzfat, etc. During the British mandate there was conflict between the Jewish and Arab communities. Safed is built on the side of a steep hill and so the British built steps to keep the communities apart. The steps are about 5 metres wide and were presumably policed – not as depressing and disruptive as a wall. Unfortunately peace was never established between the two communities. After the 1948 war Safed became completely Jewish, with the steps acting as a reminder of its previous neighbours. P